Some Dunks you buy because they stand out, and others because you can throw them on every day without giving it a second thought. The Nike Dunk Low “Smoke Grey” — listed in full as “Smoke Grey Gum” by most retailers — clearly belongs to the second group. And that’s exactly why I find it more interesting than its understated appearance might suggest.
What you see on the shoe
The base is lightly textured white leather, with the familiar perforations on the toe box. Grey suede is layered over it on the mudguard, along the side panels and around the heel. That combination of smooth and rough materials is the whole story of this colorway — you don’t need a bold color when two materials already provide enough contrast. The Swoosh is slightly darker, leaning more toward grey-green than pure grey, which helps it stand apart neatly without shouting. The laces are grey too.
The real surprise is down below. The midsole is white, but the outsole is gum: that warm honey-brown shade you know from skate Dunks. That one detail moves the shoe away from “grey is boring” and gives it a tone that works just as well with brown, camel and olive as it does with black. Several retailers also list a reflective 3M version of the Swoosh — so under artificial light, the shoe looks just a little different than it does during the day.
Would I wear it myself?
Yes, mainly because it asks so little of you. Grey and white is a color combination that’s almost impossible to style badly: straight-leg jeans, grey or black trousers, beige chinos. The gum sole is the only element that really calls for a specific choice, and even that is an easy one — pair it with something warm on top and the look immediately works. To me, this is a shoe for autumn, simply because suede and gum belong in that kind of light.
One thing to keep in mind: suede isn’t the most carefree material in the Dutch rain. Applying a waterproofing spray before wearing it for the first time really does make a difference in the long run.
Fit and sizing
The Nike Dunk Low generally runs on the narrow side, especially across the instep. If you have wider feet, going up half a size is the usual advice. In the selection we’re seeing, this colorway is available from EU 36 all the way up to EU 48.5, so there’s plenty of choice at both ends of the size range — something that isn’t a given with a current Dunk.
What the market looks like right now
This Dunk released in October 2023 and is now stocked by a sizeable group of retailers. We’re currently counting twelve active listings, with the lowest price around 80 euros and the highest close to 155 euros. That’s nearly double the price for the exact same shoe, and in practice it mainly comes down to which size you need. The common sizes sit at the lower end of that range, while the extremes are found at the higher end.
You see that more often with Nike models that have been around for a while, and this one currently has a Hypescore of 82 with us — the ATOMIC phase, the most heavily charged category on our scale. So there’s still plenty of movement, even though the release is already well behind us.
That’s exactly why it pays to compare before placing your order. Put the shops side by side, filter by your size and see where the price difference lies — with this colorway, the gap is big enough that it’s not worth leaving it to chance.