The 5 isn’t the easiest model to wear. High heel, aggressive lines, and that sawtooth pattern on the midsole that comes in stark contrast on most versions. This “Anthracite” solves that in the only way that really works: keeping everything in the same tone.
What you’re getting
Dark grey suede on the toe, heel and side panel. Black woven material across the rest of the upper. Grey mesh in the side section, covered by a transparent panel. The sawtooth pattern on the midsole is silver-grey with speckles, so it stands out without stealing the show. Underneath, a translucent outsole. There’s a “23” on the heel, pressed into the suede in the same colour, so you only notice it when the light catches it.
Everything stays within the same grey-and-black palette. That makes the shoe read as one shape instead of a collection of panels, which is exactly what a 5 needs.
How to wear it
This one calls for a quiet foundation. Black trousers, dark jeans or grey sweatpants. Avoid heavily contrasting washes, because then your trousers and your shoes start competing for attention, and both lose.
On top, you can absolutely do more. Since the shoe itself doesn’t introduce any colour, your jacket or sweater can carry it. An olive-green jacket, a brown overshirt, a dark blue puffer: all work perfectly, while the shoe simply gets on with its job underneath.
One thing I’d be wary of: shorts. The 5 has a high, broad heel, and the proportions start looking odd when there’s too much bare leg above it. Go with a full-length leg and let the hem just rest on the shoe.
What to watch out for
Suede in a dark shade discolours when it gets wet, and you’ll notice that on grey sooner than on black. This isn’t a shoe for a day of showers. The translucent outsole will turn more yellow over time, which some people like and others don’t, but it’s going to happen either way.
And then there’s the issue you can’t get around: the price. Four stores carry it, with the cheapest asking 397 euros and the most expensive 660. That’s not entry-level pricing. For that kind of money, you’re buying a shoe you won’t wear every day, so factor that in.
The rest of the line is on the Air Jordan 5 page, and the full brand selection is on the Jordan page.
One more thing about the shape. The 5 has a high collar and a sturdy, upright tongue with a loop in it. That makes it look heavier than a low-top sneaker, and it also means the top of the shoe remains visible beneath your trousers. Expect this model to always play a role in your silhouette, even when the colour is keeping a low profile.
In summary
This is the 5 for anyone who likes the silhouette but doesn’t want to make a statement every day. Grey on grey, nothing to explain. Just be prepared to compare prices: there’s more than 250 euros between the cheapest and most expensive store here.